French Food Brotherhood Passion (and Fantastic Fashion)


What Forces Grown Groups Do French men and women wear white plush hats shaped like giant wheels of yellowtail? Or red cloaks with jagged green collars, resembling giant strawberries? Or even a gray hat with long, squiggly white tendrils to show your love for pig intestines?

These are not the latest Parisian fashion. Instead, such stunning costumes symbolize a deep devotion to French food and produce.

Hundreds of people live in France confetti, Dedicated to local wines, liqueurs, fruits, vegetables, cheeses or regional cooked specialties. Joining one of these volunteer groups is a serious commitment. When members take office, they pledge to support local products. They often wear headgear, medallions, and long robes, whose color and cut reflect their beloved food items. Their solemn duties include marching, judging cooking contests, and awarding prizes to the best farmers, chefs, or restaurants who maintain the glory of certain edible foods. increase.

The charming town of Meaux, about 45 minutes from Paris, Brotherhood of Brie de Meaux, Its members wear large headgear in the shape of Bree. Thierry Bichenet, a retired advertising executive, is the current president of the Brotherhood. Member duties include promoting the benefits of his PDO in the European Union, which establishes standards and labeling rights for cheeses such as brie de meaux, or protected designations of origin, he said. say. “During visits to elementary schools, our role is to help the young man discover his PDO cheese,” he explains. “We encourage you to appreciate their gastronomic traditions through tastings and classes.”

Two members of the Confrérie Gourmande du Cochon de Bayeux celebrate with one of the famous Bayeux pigs. Lionel Bona Adventure/Getty Images

Festivals are another way these groups celebrate their offerings, often in collaboration with other local brotherhoods. Organized by the Brotherhood of Breedmaux in October 2022, ‘Brie Happy!’ One member participated. Their annual competition attracts the best breeders in the country. The work was judged by a jury of eminent experts.

Another brotherhood was born out of a yearning for beloved pastries.Grandmaster Olivier Carnot La Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tougnolis a famous rugby champion who grew up in the village of Chalabre in the south of France. As a child, he always loved crescent-shaped anise-flavored rolls. Tonyor, Carbonneau and his determined companion Chevalier eventually obtain the lost recipe from the village baker’s grandson, resurrect it, and sell it to farmers markets and We sold special products from the region at the fair. Their blue and gold outfits feature the city’s coat of arms and favorite rolls.

Zewwelatrepple onion <em>confrérie</em> members wear straw hats and group onion-adorned medals.  ” width=”auto” data-kind=”article-image” id=”article-image-92688″ src=” /sm:1/scp:1/ar:1/aHR0cHM6Ly9hdGxh/cy1kZXYuczMuYW1h/em9uYXdzLmNvbS91/cGxvYWRzL2Fzc2V0/cy84YTJjNjQzYi03/MmMxLTQ5MGYtODBh/Yi0wM2ZhZmFlOTBl/YjM5MjQ1YjU3M2M1/Njk1NGEwM2JfY29u/ZnJlzIFyaWVfZnJh/bmNlLmpwZw.jpg”/><figcaption class=Members of the Zewelatrepple onion confetti, Sports medals decorated with group straw hats and onions. Iran Garzone/Getty Images

Most brotherhoods have a core group of one to two dozen official members.You can also count the hundreds of supporters who act as ambassadors to spread the love for their respective ingredients, including famous chefs, politicians, and athletes. La Compagnie des Musketeers Darmagnacwhich counts around 4,500 Armagnac “Musketeers” around the world, including famous members such as Prince Albert of Monaco, Leonardo DiCaprio and Stanley Tucci.

Culinary brotherhood is nothing new. During the Middle Ages, winemaking organizations sprang up, many of which were licensed by the French kings. In a time when poisoned wine ruined many royal banquets by killing guests and hosts, a trusted master organized a group of winemakers to ensure these banquets were drama-free. I made it By cultivating vines, making wine and tasting it, members ensured the purity of the drink and ensured the safety of the king and his guests. , approved the conference of goose roasters.

In 1791, during the French Revolution, a law prohibited all such brotherhoods in the name of free enterprise. It was in his mid-twentieth century that they were reborn. The development of post-war France allowed citizens to rediscover their taste for the good things in life. At the same time, growing concerns about the industrial food industry’s erosion of authentic regional flavors created a need to protect local products.

A member of the Order of La Conférerie des Chevaliers du Toignols, along with two members of the Conférerie de la Tarte Jeanté au Fraise.
A member of the Order of La Conférerie des Chevaliers du Toignols, along with two members of the Conférerie de la Tarte Jeanté au Fraise. Courtesy of La Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tougnol

These groups were originally male-dominated organizations, but many now welcome female members. A group called La Confrérie des Taste-Sanciaux de Châtres-sur-Cher, which promotes Normandy apple-stuffed pancakes, only accepts female members who are provided with a secret recipe upon joining. “The men are there to help set up and load the equipment,” said Hélène Degrigny. marquise brotherhood 2019 interview“Otherwise, the kitchen would be a mess.”

Along with the convivial atmosphere of parades and feasts, the purpose of these friars is to preserve the products associated with a particular place, preserve ancestral recipes, and pass them on to younger generations.Researcher Natalie Lewisgrand according to, decisive action You can protect the French gastronomic heritage. For example, local French saffron is Brotherhood of the Saffron Knights of GatinaAfter decades of absence, the spice is growing again in France.

Dominique Vignotto is Authentic Brotherhood of the Knights of Camembert of Normandy. During her ten years as a member, her motivation remains the same. “It’s about preserving, protecting and promoting the Normandy terroir and the art of making raw milk cheese,” she says. After a lengthy legal battle, in 2021 industrial camembert her cheese can no longer be confused with raw milk camembert from the region. Because only the latter are allowed to carry the “Made in Normandy” label. “Our next goal is to add raw milk camembert to UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritage,” says Vignotto.

You need a village to make a giant omelet.
You need a village to make a giant omelet. Courtesy of Confrérie Mondiale des Chevaliers de l’Omelette Géante de Bessières

Not all of these groups have embarked on such serious projects. While most conferries celebrate local wines, cheeses, or other edibles, some conferries are dedicated to creating and sharing giant versions of traditional French cuisine. Hearty strawberry tart 30 feet long, 6 feet wide, or a giant omelet.

of Confrérie Mondiale des Chevaliers de l’Omelette Géante de Bessières They started the ritual in 1973, giving away giant omelets once a year. It is believed that this tradition is rooted in Napoleon’s love of omelets, which he once ate in the town of Bessieres.

Every Easter Monday for the past 50 years, members of this brotherhood prepare a giant omelet with 15,000 eggs, 22 pounds of salt, 4 gallons of oil, and a bucket of herbs. This tradition now extends to his six French-speaking cities around the world, including Abbeville, Louisiana.

But in Bessieres, the true meaning of the event is clear. Each year, during the festival, local children are taught how to make omelettes, ensuring that the skill is passed on to the next generation.

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